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Does Florida Need Another Cruise Ship Port…At the Expense of Healthy Habitats

The 25,000 acre Terra Ceia Aquatic Preserve is a protected natural wetland on the edge of Tampa Bay. With its expansive network of waterways, mangrove forests, salt marsh, and sea grass meadows, the Terra Ceia is an undeveloped gem providing substantial fishing and wildlife viewing opportunities a short drive from downtown Tampa Bay. Earlier this year, a developer was far too close to turning a portion of this incredible protected wetland habitat into a cruise ship port…yes, another one.

Earlier this winter, local Florida press outlets broke the story how developers SSA Marine and Slip Knott LLC planned to build the Knott-Cowen Cruise Port on a 328-acre tract just north of Rattlesnake Key, a undeveloped parcel of mangrove forest ecologically connected to the Terra Ceia Aquatic Preserve. Florida already has numerous cruise ports and even a port in Tampa Bay, just 25 miles from the proposed location.

So, why are these developers intent on destroying a largely intact and highly-functioning habitat? Because mega cruise ships can’t reach the Tampa cruise port, due to clearance issues with the Skyway Bridge. To make matters even worse, the project scope included dredging a new 4.5-mile deep-water channel–that would have major negative impacts on the Terra Ceia Aquatic Preserve, seagrass meadows, and essential habitats for many of our favorite fish and other species of wildlife.

As always, those behind the project–and those who would’ve profited the most–touted the huge influx of economic activity to the region. But that ignores the economic benefits Florida already receives from its healthy waterways and productive fisheries.

Local Guide, Captain David White, relies on these waters for his livelihood and was one of the early voices sounding the alarm. “As a captain and a father of 3, the possibility of development on Rattlesnake Key affects me greatly. We all should recognize that we are very early in the process. I’m all for entrepreneurship and local business growth, but this project is wrong. It’s wrong for our area and our community’s future,” said White. “Folks just don’t realize how fragile our waterways and estuaries are–not to mention, they’re still recovering from red tides, pollution, and poor water management.”

All of these photos are from Rattlesnake Key and Paradise Key. This is my daughter, Layla with a Rattlesnake Key Snook, me speaking at a rally for saving Tiera Ceia, and my kids on a sandbar at Paraside Key. Paradise is slated to be wiped off of the map by SSA Marine’s proposed plan.

“I fish this region all the time, and the habitat in question includes 14 ponds on Rattlesnake Key and numerous feeder creeks. Ponds are estuaries for the growth of our redfish, snook, trout, juvenile tarpon. In front of Rattlesnake Key, in an area that would be directly dredged, sits an artificial reef that is critical habitat for our grouper and snappers as well as limestone and reef for snapper, trout, and sheepshead. The 9-12’ hard bottom area in front of Rattlesnake Key is a pivotal staging area for our migratory tarpon.” 

Echoing the voices of White and other concerned stakeholders, Tampa Bay WaterKeeper organized an Action Alert to raise awareness and mobilize opposition to this disaster of a project.

The local WaterKeepers stated, “The proposed port would threaten the health of our shared watersheds, including Tampa Bay, Terra Ceia Bay, Sarasota Bay, and beyond. SSA Marine’s claims about economic benefits and ecological preservation obscure the real, serious harm this terminal would inflict on our waterways, our health, our businesses, and our way of life.”

Fortunately, Florida’s legislators took notice. Florida State Senator Jim Boyd and Representative Will Robinson Jr., who both represent the exact area threatened by the cruise port project, introduced SB 302. The bill focused on strengthening coastal protection by promoting nature-based solutions like mangroves, reefs, and living shorelines instead of relying only on traditional infrastructure. It creates a statewide system and streamlined permitting process to make these environmentally friendly projects easier and faster to implement. Notably, the bill also increases protections for sensitive areas like Terra Ceia, in response to the cruise project.

Florida’s legislature doesn’t have the greatest track record on conservation issues as of late; Captains for Clean Water mobilized their ever-growing network of advocates back in 2022 and this past year to fight back against bills, promoted by the Sugar Industry, that would’ve had major negative implications for Everglades restoration. So, it is refreshing to see Florida’s legislators standing up for healthy waterways and habitats.

SB302 passed the legislature, and Governor Ron DeSantis signed the bill into law a few weeks ago. “We have many world-class deepwater seaports already,” said Governor DeSantis. “They contribute a lot to the state economy. They contribute local taxes, jobs. So, there’s a lot that goes into that, but Florida remains an important destination for cruise expedition. There’s not really a need to add another port in the middle of a conserved area, and an aquatic preserve, especially given that Tampa Bay is already home to three deepwater ports, including SeaPort Manatee, right here in Manatee County. So, construction of a new port next door I think struck a lot of people as being unnecessary.”

As is true with conservation battles like Pebble Mine, public lands, or Big Sugar’s opposition to Everglades restoration–this could be one of those recurring issues that demands vigilant oversight and advocacy. But for now, good on the legislators who supported conservation and rightfully viewing a massive cruise port on a sensitive ecosystem as a poor idea. White added, “I’m sure this will be a very long fight, but we need to maintain this level of intensity and enthusiasm for conservation the whole time. It’s up to us, as a community, to keep this estuary intact for our children and grandchildren. Because once it is gone, there is no getting it back.”

Photo credit, @Captain David White.



Carving a Life Size Tarpon Out of Wood

Screenshot

A Note from Ross Curington (@rosscuringtonart):

“I’m a big supporter of the Coastal Conservation Association. Their largest fundraising event is held in Bradenton, Florida, an area renowned for its tarpon fishery. Inspired by this event, I decided to carve a fish and donate it to be auctioned off in front of 1,300 anglers. I was ecstatic with the auction’s success and the opportunity to contribute to such a noble cause.

My passion for carving began when I wanted to display a fish on my wall. However, the typical fiberglass reproduction didn’t quite meet my expectations. As a lifelong wildlife and marine artist, I decided to try an experiment a carve wood into a fish and paint it. This started 12 years ago. Since then, I’ve sold every fish I’ve created and now have a close to two-year waitlist for one.

My carvings may not be flawless replicas. That’s not their intended purpose. Instead, I believe they capture the representation of a particular fish from a special memory and also serve as heirloom art pieces.

Each fish I create requires an incredible amount of time, effort, and love. Additionally, I’m a passionate angler, and this hobby has been an integral part of my life for as long as I can remember. Combining my love for carving and fishing is an incredible blessing.”

Reel of the Week from Ross, be sure to follow his Instagram HERE!

Going Deep: Choosing the Right Sink Tip for Winter Steelhead

Catching winter steelhead on the swing is perhaps the greatest mystery in fly fishing. From the very start, you must deduce where in the seemingly endless miles of river that steelhead are running. Then you’ve got to find an appropriate, not-too-slow and not-too-fast spot. Finally, you rifle through your fly box to try and find a pattern to tempt a fish that doesn’t actually eat. Throughout this constant investigation, the last thing steelheaders worry about is their sink-tip, yet it’s often the most important tool on their belt. 

Fishing the right sink-tip, or sinking leader, is crucial to winter steelhead success. Not only will it help you get your flies down on the steelhead’s level, but when you’re looking for a needle in a haystack, the right sink tip will help you present your fly efficiently, increasing your odds of connecting with a unicorn. With all the different types of sink-tips out there, finding the right one for the job can be a real challenge, yet there are some general rules to follow. 

Know Your Sink Rates

Most sink-tips come with an inches-per-second, or ips, rating system printed right on the side of the package. Generally, these range from around 3ips all the way down to 10ips. The better ones will also be color-coded so you can automatically grab the right tip out of your leader wallet without having to do any guesswork.

Knowing the sink rate of each one of your leaders is crucial, as it essentially allows you to count down your depth after you cast. This gives you both a general idea both of how deep you’re fishing and how and where your fly is being presented to the fish. 

Lighter is Better

Over my years of chasing winter chrome, the biggest mistake I’ve seen 99.9% steelheaders make is fishing too heavy. Most will automatically rig up the heftiest sink-tip they have and then dredge the bottom, snagging every few minutes and breaking off half their flies in the process before finally changing to a lighter tip. This is an error built around the idea that winter steelhead are always right on the bottom, and while this does have some merit, most anglers don’t realize that steelhead strike up

Steelhead strike lures, flies, baitfish, or even waterlogged leaves drifting through the current (I’ve seen it happen), out of habit and/or aggression. After spending their formative years as lowly rainbows that rose and snatched insects out of the river before heading to the ocean, steelhead automatically begin to associate anything drifting over their heads with food. In addition, steelhead will also strike anything that enters their “bubble,” or the 5 to 6 inches of space in front and just above their head, out of pure aggression. This is exactly where you want your fly to be. 

When you start off fishing with a heavy sink-tip that keeps your fly on the bottom, you’re essentially smacking the fish right in the face with your fly. Usually, this causes steelhead to spook rather than strike, leading to wasting time swinging back through what is now empty water. Instead of just fishing with the heaviest tip you have, start with a slightly lighter sink-tip than you think you’ll need. Fish it through the run, and if you don’t connect, gradually work your way down with faster sink-rates, and you’re almost guaranteed to get more grabs.  

Weighted Leaders vs. Weighted Flies

Matching your sink-tip to your fly is an essential part of winter steelheading. Unweighted and even lightly weighted flies sink gradually and will move downstream with the current as they descend, while heavy, dumbbell-eyed fly patterns make a beeline for the bottom like the front half of the Titanic. This can have a dramatic effect on your presentation, so when you’re choosing a sink tip, take the weight of your fly into account. 

Ideally, a perfect presentation for winter steelhead will see your line, leader, tippet, and fly all traveling through the water at a gradual 45-degree angle. However, if the sink tip is too heavy for the fly, your presentation will have more of an unnatural “J” shape where the fly is drifting at an angle slightly above your leader. On the other side of the coin, with a heavy fly and sink-tip combo, your presentation will usually be too steep, dredging your bug along the bottom at a 60-degree or even 70-degree angle below the steelhead’s chins. 

While it can vary with the depth of the water you’re fishing, generally you want to try to match up your sink tip and fly so that they both sink at roughly the same speed. The easiest way to do this is to either stick with a heavier tip and a medium-weighted fly or to remove any uncertainty by casting different combinations into the shallow water in front of you and watching them sink. Once you find a combo that sinks on a pretty much even plane, you should be good to go. 

Make Length Work For You

Selecting the right length of sink-tip is also a vital part of winter steelhead success because essentially the longer your sink-tip is, the faster it will sink. Generally, most steelheaders stick to a standard 10-foot length of whatever sink rate they deem appropriate because it’s easier to cast. Yet there are times when using a longer or shorter sink-tip can get you into more steelhead. 

If you’re fishing an extremely deep but slow-flowing run where most of the fish are holding down in the center of the river, switch out to a longer sink tip instead of a heavier fly. In these situations, a longer 12-foot + sink tip will increase your sink rate while still allowing everything to plan out. It’s a great way to ensure that your swing is absolutely humming when you get to the sweet spot in the slowly flowing current, rather than having your fly sink too fast and smack into the bottom just as it gets to the fish. 

Almost every steelhead angler looks for those long, pristine runs where the whole section of river flows at a walking pace. But you’re only fishing in those perfect spots; you’re passing up a lot of fish. During their upstream migration, winter steelhead will pull over anywhere they can to take a break, and those resting fish will usually grab. I’ve caught plenty of steelhead in short pockets of slow water that were directly adjacent to fast-moving rapids by using a short, heavy sink tip paired with a heavily weighted fly. By using a shorter, 7-foot chunk of heavy 8ips+ leader and a weighted fly, you’re putting a lot of sink into a very small package. It’s perfect for casting into fast water, as it will sink right through the current without getting blown downstream, allowing you to tighten up and swing your fly as soon as it reaches the slow stuff.

Elementary, My Dear Steelheader

Part of the fun of winter steelheading is that it’s like playing a giant aquatic game of Clue. To win the game, you have to figure out where the fish are, what type of water they like, and what type of fly they’ll strike. While a lot of steelheaders rush in and just start guessing by hurling things against the wall and hoping something will stick, when you know how to pick the right sink-tip, you eliminate a lot of the guesswork. When you fish the right sink-tip, you fish with confidence, so that every cast you make is taking you one step closer to cracking the case. 

The Drift: The Bass Pond

I live a bit outside Yellowstone National Park, within shouting distance of some of fly fishing’s most heralded rivers. I’m spoiled, and I enjoy the trout fishing as much as anyone, but every so often, I get this itch to chase something different. Trout are great, don’t get me wrong. They’re dependable in an offbeat way, more mercurial than my in-laws, and it’s hard to beat the feeling of seeing a good fish rise to your dry fly.

But the world isn’t just stretches of land and water between trout rivers. It’s full of other critters, many of which are great fun on a fly rod, as my recent trip to Florida taught me. In fact, I came back from Florida with so much affection for bass, that I couldn’t help poking around some of the ponds out in the valley, where the antelope and cattle compete for the same public grass.

Most of these ponds are small reservoirs built for watering stock and irrigating alfalfa fields, but word around town is that the Game & Fish department thought these ponds would be suitable for largemouth bass, bluegill, and tiger muskie. I don’t own a musky rod, but the bass and bluegill interested me plenty, especially with the boat hatch starting on the local tailwaters as word of decent trout fishing made it out of the valley.

So, last Sunday afternoon, I loaded up the truck and struck out for one pond that looked promising. A decade ago, biologists stocked it with 1,600 largemouth bass, then proceeded to dump bluegill and tiger muskie every other year afterwards. The entire western shore was all cattails and reeds, and there were enough spots along the dam with open casting room that I figured I could fish the pond well enough without a float tube.

I know next to nothing about fly fishing for bass, but I know the Clouser minnow is as good a streamer as any, so I tied that on the end of a short leader and started casting. A half-hour passed by before I felt that telltale thunk of a largemouth inhaling the fly. It wasn’t anything to write home about—11 or 12 inches long—but it was a largemouth bass I caught on a fly rod, without a friend there to hold my hand. That felt pretty good.

My first largemouth from the local pond.

I missed another strike from what looked like a good-sized bluegill. Then my wife called and kindly asked me to come home; our 10-month-old daughter is cute and adorable, but she’s also a handful when you’re on your own, so I happily went home to play with her and help out around the house.

That lone bass didn’t quite scratch the itch, though. After getting the baby down for bed, I called Brett, a friend I used to work with when we both taught high school English. He has a canoe, he fly fishes, and he’s usually up for some exploring. We settled on taking his canoe out Tuesday morning, which I theorized would give us a good chance at fishing the wall of cattails on the west shore of the pond.

One nugget about bass I picked up from my friend Max in Florida is that they’re more active as the water gets warm, which is a paradigm shift for a lifetime trout angler. When Tuesday morning rolled around, and it was 10 degrees cooler than expected, I was worried the fishing wouldn’t pan out.

Brett and I earned an odd look from a farmer who drove by in a tractor on the county road as he moved from one field to another. I’m sure he’s used to people fishing the pond, but probably not hauling a canoe out there. It’s not very deep – maybe six feet at most – and especially out in the middle of fields and pastures, it’s not the sort of place where you see a lot of fly anglers, either.

We launched the canoe anyway, and focused on that wall of cattails. Brett caught the first fish, and that set off a flurry of activity for the better part of an hour as one bass after another—all small—ate our Clouser minnows with gusto.

Most of the bass in this pond aren’t big, but they’re not shy about eating, either.

The wind picked up and blew us out towards the middle of the lake. Just as I was about to start paddling us closer to the cattails, I saw a few branches poking out of the water. Another thing I picked up from Max is how much bass love structure; we spent hours casting to sunken trees at the bass lakes in Florida.

I paddled us towards those branches, which turned out to be the highest limbs of a pile of Christmas trees sunk in the middle of the lake, presumably for creating bass habitat. My first cast into the mess of branches yielded another cookie-cutter largemouth. Then, I threw an idle cast towards the far side of the tree pile. I let the fly sink, and was re-arranging my net beneath my feet when I felt a slight tap on the line.

I tightened the line, bounced the fly once, and felt another tap. I gave the fly a good strip-set, and my 6-weight doubled over. Whatever had just eaten it wasn’t the same 10-inch largemouth we’d been catching all morning.

Then the fish flashed a few feet under the boat, enough for Brett and I to realize this was a sizable bass. The fight was shorter and less dramatic than you’d expect, which Max later told me was due to the cold water, but I eventually put my personal-best largemouth in the net.

It’s no record-breaker, but it’s the biggest bass I’ve ever caught, and bigger by far than anything I ever thought I’d find in that pond.

I fished the rest of the morning in a daze before Brett had to leave, and once we’d loaded the canoe back up, I sent Max a few of the pictures. He couldn’t believe the size of the fish, or that I’d skipped out on the trout fishing to chase bass.

That big bass is a fish I won’t forget, in the same way the lunker from your local creek will always be burned into your memory. Sure, it’s a nice fish, and most anglers will gladly take the big bass over the small one, given a choice. But I think it’s the fish’s complete unexpectedness, combined with my still-new knowledge of largemouth, that still makes the catch seem unreal. Sort of like how the world seems so much bigger when you’re a kid, because you didn’t know any better.

How to Pick The Right Fly Line

fly line laying around

As a beginner, if you thought picking a fly rod was tough with all the options on the market, you’ll probably feel like that’s child’s play compared to picking out a fly line.

From sink-tips to intermediate lines, Spey and Skagit kits, to quarter, half, and full-size heavy lines, it’s not easy to wade through all the noise here and pick the right line for you fly rod.

Today, we’ll simplify the line selection process, explain what you need to look for, and give you some solid background knowledge so you can pick the right line for your fly fishing needs.

Fly Line Anatomy

Fly lines are made up of running line, a rear taper, belly, and front taper. The way that these components blend together dictates how a fly line will behave, and show you what a fly line was designed to do.

Fly line diagram for Scientific Anglers’ Magnitude Textured Trout Expert Clear-Tip Line.

Most fly lines are around 90 feet, although some are longer.

Your fly rod is designed to cast weighted line; the part of the fly line with the weight that loads your rod so you can effectively cast is the head. The head is made up of the front taper, belly, and rear taper, and can be anywhere from the first 30 feet of a fly line, to the first 60 feet of the line.

Running line is thin and level. It doesn’t have a taper, or very much weight. It’s designed to give you more distance, and to give you more room between your fly line and backing on your reel.

Line Weight

Fly rods are designed to cast a certain weight of fly line. The larger the weight, the larger fly that rod can easily throw. Each fly line has a standardized weight, set by the American Fly Fishing Trade Association (AFFTA).

A 5-weight rod is designed to cast a line that weighs 140 grains, although AFFTA considers a line weighing anywhere from 134 – 146 grains a 5-weight.

These line weight standards are largely suggestions these days, because a lot of fly rod companies are building rods that are stiffer. A term you’ll hear to describe this is “faster.” It means that less of the rod bends during the cast. So a rod designed to handle the regular duties of a 5-weight – dry flies, nymphs, and smaller streamers – might need a heavier line to properly load it. A heavier line adds more weight to the casting process, which will slow the rod’s action down, forcing it to bend more.

This has led to the rise of quarter, half, and full-size heavy lines. So the line might weigh 160 grains – the target weight for a 6-weight line – but it’s labeled as a 5-weight line, designed to be thrown on a 5-weight rod.

I know, that’s confusing. It’s largely a result of rod and line companies trying to complement the work the other is doing, and in the end, it makes it tough to know what fly line you’re really buying, especially if you’re new to the sport. That’s why understanding fly line design, tapers, and line weights is key to picking the right line for your rod.

Generally speaking, if you’re using your rod for all-around trout fishing, a line that’s true-to-weight (hits the AFFTA standard for line weight) up to a half-size heavy is generally your best bet. That line will handle throwing a wide range of dry flies, nymphs, and even some smaller streamers.

And now that we understand a fly line’s anatomy, let’s look at those other important aspects of picking a line.

Fly Line Taper

The most important consideration aside from the line’s actual weight (is it quarter, half, or full-size heavy) is its taper. Lines with short, aggressive heads are designed to cast large flies, and deliver those casts quickly. Lines with longer, more gradual heads are great for more delicate presentations, like laying down dry flies on clear water.

For most trout fishing, I favor the Scientific Anglers Infinity line. It has a taper that strikes a great balance between enough weight to turn over streamers and heavier nymph rigs, but it’s still delicate enough for a lot of dry fly work.

The Scientific Anglers’ Amplitude Smooth Infinity line.

It has about a 50-foot head, which is perfect, since most trout fishing requires casts in that 30-60 foot range. That means, for the majority of my casts, I’ll be casting and mending the head of the line, which is easier to move and manipulate than the running line.

Now, compare the taper of that Infinity line with this Titan Long taper, also from Scientific Anglers:

The Amplitude Smooth Titan Long taper from Scientific Anglers.

The head is shorter, and look at how aggressive that taper moves. The weight is packed in the first 15 or so feet, to aid in casting heavy, large flies, and to do so quickly.

Finally, look at the taper diagram for the Trout Expert line from Scientific Anglers:

The Amplitude Smooth Trout Expert taper from Scientific Anglers.

The head on this line is nearly 70 feet long, and look at how gradually the taper moves from thick to thin. This is a line designed to gradually and softly lay out flies, so it’s going to be a great choice for anglers looking for a dry-fly specific line.

Picking Your Perfect Line

Alright – we know about fly line anatomy, and we’ve seen a few different tapers. Plus, we understand that some fly lines are heavier than others, even if they’re both labeled as 5-weight. So how do you use this information to pick the right line?

  • For all-purpose trout fishing, it’s hard to beat the versatility of a half-weight heavy size line with a taper like the Scientific Anglers Infinity. You have enough weighted line to handle mending and casting to distance, but the line isn’t so heavy that it won’t softly lay down dry flies when the situation calls for it. From hopper-dropper rigs, to nymph setups, to larger single dries, this taper style is hard to beat.
  • For dry flies, you’ll love a true-to-weight line with a long head and gradual taper. It won’t be the easiest to cast in the wind, but this line makes up for that by laying down flies so softly. A small dry-dropper rig works well on this line, too.
  • For big bugs and bigger fish, get those more aggressively tapered lines. They’re specifically designed to handle these big flies and the demands of turning them over.

What About Sinking Lines?

So far, we’ve focused entirely on floating lines, and that ignores a huge portion of lines out there – sink-tips and full-sink lines.

These are built for fishing streamers, wet flies, and nymphs, often in stillwater environments, although you’ll see a lot of sink-tip lines using for fishing streamers in rivers.

The key to understanding these lines is reading the line’s sink rate, which is often expressed in how many inches it sinks per second (IPS). A 7IPS line sinks quicker than a 2IPS line. For deep water, or fishing streamers in fast-moving rivers, a faster sink, and a longer sink-tip, are ideal.

To fish wet flies or nymphs at a certain depth in stillwater, or slower portions of rivers, intermediate lines are another option. Full-sink lines are almost exclusively used on lakes to get your flies down deep and keep them there throughout the entire retrieve.

Wrapping Up

As confusing as fly lines can be, you’ll clear a lot of your questions up by going into the process with a clear goal in mind. Are you outfitting your 9′ 5-weight that you use for nymphs, dries, and streamers? An all-purpose line is probably best. But if you’re looking to pair your fast-action 3-weight with the right line for high-country fishing, then a true-to-weight line with a shorter head could be a great choice.

If you clearly understand what you’re trying to get the rod and line to do together, picking the line becomes a lot easier.

Tides and Striped Bass 101

Releasing a striped bass caught on the fly.

I was enjoying an early-morning coffee in the kitchen of my brother’s cottage in Maine, when he burst through the door and said, “I was just walking the dog on the beach, and there are stripers everywhere.” That’s not the kind of thing I need to be told twice, so within a minute, we were hustling down the middle of the road that led to the beach. When we crested the dunes, the sun on the horizon backlit birds diving everywhere and baitfish flying out of the water, trying to escape the voracious predators below. For the next 90 minutes, we stood in knee-deep water, casting at the striped bass that swarmed all around us. I landed five stripers and had twice as many follow the fly right to my feet before turning away. It was both thrilling and maddening until, as if someone had thrown a switch, the fish and birds were gone.

That was the day we learned how an incoming tide trapped baitfish in the corner defined by the nearby jetty and created a noticeable current back along the beach. That such conditions coincided with the low light of early morning made the bass feel more secure and willing to feed with abandon in shallow water. That knowledge unlocked the secrets to several other shore spots nearby, and we were able to find great striper action several more times that week.

Time and Tide

If you want to catch more striped bass from the beach, one of the most important skills you can develop is learning how to read the tides. For novice and intermediate surf anglers, knowing which tides create the right conditions for stripers can mean the difference between fruitless casting and success. Because tides control current and depth, move bait, and shape feeding lanes, they allow you to predict where striped bass will most likely be feeding.

Rips and current edges are key to finding feeding striped bass.

Striped bass are built to take advantage of moving water, and they are masters at using current to feed efficiently. Instead of chasing bait, they often hold near structure and let the tide deliver food to them, similar to a waiting trout. When water starts moving around points, bars, jetties, cuts, and inlets, it creates rips, seams, and ambush zones that stripers exploit. That’s why a beach that looks lifeless at one stage of the tide can suddenly become productive a few hours later.

The first step is knowing where to get reliable tide information. There are lots of tide charts available online, but NOAA Tides & Currents is the best because it provides tide predictions, including the times and heights of high and low water, for thousands of locations. It also provides current predictions in many locations, which is especially important around inlets, channels, and other features where water moves differently at different tide levels. A lot of anglers make the mistake of checking only high tide and low tide times, but at current-heavy spots, the timing of maximum flood, maximum ebb, and slack current can affect when bass feed.

For a simpler, more user-friendly planning option, many surfcasters also use sites like US Harbors, which package tide charts together with weather, sunrise and sunset, and local conditions. It’s a convenient way to get a quick snapshot before a trip. But even the best tide website won’t tell you exactly how your beach fishes. The most valuable source of tide information over time is your own experience. Keeping notes on tide stage, moon phase, wind, water clarity, bait presence, and catches, and patterns will begin to emerge. You’ll notice that one beach comes alive on the first two hours of the outgoing, while another fishes best during the end of the incoming. That personal record is what turns general tide knowledge into fish-catching knowledge.

Learn to Read

Reading a tide chart is easier than it looks once you know what to focus on. At its simplest, a tide chart shows the times and heights of high and low tides, along with a curve that shows how water rises and falls between them. For surfcasting, the key is to stop thinking of tides as single moments—such as “high tide at 8:00 p.m.”—and start thinking in terms of the best windows for fishing. If high tide is at 8:00 PM, the good action may begin two hours before and continue an hour or two after, depending on the spot. Fishing a full tide window gives you access to the water as it rises onto structure, peaks, then begins to drain, and those transitions are often when bass become most active.

Tide chart
Tide charts like this one from NOAA.gov allow anglers to monitor and predict when the fishing is best.

It’s also important to understand what tide height means in practical terms. The numbers on the chart tell you how much water will cover sandbars, troughs, boulder fields, and flats. A stretch of beach that’s too shallow to hold fish at dead low may suddenly have enough water at mid-tide for bass to move in tight. Likewise, a cut in a sandbar might be easy to read and fish on the dropping tide, but too washed out at high water. Tide height helps you visualize not just where the water will be, but how the underwater terrain will fish.

Finally, the tides at your fishing spots might not be exactly the same as those at the nearest reporting station. For instance, one of my favorite beaches in Rhode Island is a couple miles up the estuary from the nearest station, and it took me a few visits to figure out the exact time differences of high and low tide relative to the chart—more than two hours. This is another example of how your own scouting, experience, and record-keeping can help you dial-in the tides for a specific spot.

The Motion of the Ocean

Which tide stages are best for striped bass? In general, moving water is better than slack water. In many surf spots, the last half of the incoming and the first half of the outgoing are prime feeding periods because current is strong and bait is moving. These are the stages when you often see bass setting up to intercept bait. But there are exceptions. Inlets and other high-current areas can produce at peak flow, when the tide is really ripping, because bait gets swept into narrow, predictable lanes. Other times, big stripers will feed right around slack, when the current stalls and bait becomes disoriented before the tide changes direction. In these spots, it pays to fish through the transition instead of packing up right at the turn.

The shape of a beach also plays a big role in how the tide affects fishing. On gradually sloped beaches or broad flats, lower water can be very productive because it exposes bars and troughs and lets you reach features that may be too spread out at high tide. On steeper beaches, higher water often brings bass closer to shore, and the bite can improve dramatically as the tide rises. 

If you’re just starting to figure this all out, a good starting point is to focus on the period from about two hours before high tide through the first hour or two of the outgoing. That window gives you a lot of action in terms of water movement and often puts fish in close. From there, you can experiment with lower-tide periods and slack transitions, especially at inlets and marsh drains, and let your experience and fishing logs tell you what works best where you fish.

Key Features

Knowing the timing of the tide is only half the equation, though. The real goal is to find spots where the tide creates feeding opportunities. Striped bass look for places where moving water meets structure and concentrates bait. Inlets and channels are among the best examples. Because the tide is funneled through a narrow opening, these areas create strong current seams, rips, and eddies, all of which are ideal ambush zones for bass. If you’re fishing an inlet, pay close attention to the edges of fast water, rather than the fastest current itself. Like trout, bass often hold just off the main flow, where they can dart in and grab bait without fighting the full force of the current.

On open sandy beaches, the best spots are usually troughs, cuts, and the edges of sandbars. A trough is a deeper lane, often running parallel to the beach, where bass can travel and feed. A cut is a break in a bar where water pushes through, and these areas can become feeding funnels when the tide is moving. If you find a cut and fish the down-current side, you’re often presenting your fly exactly where bait is being swept. 

A nice striped bass caught in a marsh drain with a strong outgoing tide.

Points and shoreline corners are also excellent because they interrupt current and create seams and eddies. Any point that sticks into moving water has the potential to form a current break, which striped bass will use as an ambush spot. One side of a point may fish better on the flood, while the other side becomes productive on the ebb, so it’s worth fishing the same features under different tide directions. Jetties and rock piles work for similar reasons. Rocks create turbulence and whitewater, and they disorient baitfish. Bass use that confusion to feed aggressively, especially where a seam forms off the end of a jetty or where waves break over boulders and sweep back into a pocket.

Marsh drains or estuary mouths can also be productive, especially on an outgoing tide. As water drains from the marsh, it carries shrimp, crabs, and small baitfish with it. Bass know this and often stack at the mouth of the drain to intercept the food being flushed out. For beach and backwater anglers alike, outgoing tide around creek mouths is one of the most dependable feeding setups in striper fishing.

Putting in the Time

The best way to put all this together is to spend more time observing and less time rushing from spot to spot. Scout your beaches at low tide so you can actually see the bars, cuts, troughs, and rocks you’ll be fishing later. Then come back and fish those same features through different stages of the tide. Watch the water as closely as you watch your line and fly. Birds, bait movement, current seams, and changes in wave shape will often tell you more than the tide chart alone.

Learning to understand tidal movement helps you predict when a particular piece of shoreline is most likely to become a feeding zone. Once you start connecting tide stage, current direction, and structure, choosing a fishing spot becomes much less random. You’ll begin to recognize windows, not just places—and that’s when your catch rate really starts to improve.

Western Water Conservation Talks Already Underway

A modern-day look at Utah Lake, with Mount Timpanogos in the background. Photo: Michael Jolley/Flickr

Across the West, multiple water conservation districts and state offices are already working on efforts to reduce water use, especially as the warming trend has many people out and working in their yards and gardens. Three major water providers in the Denver area have already formally released statements asking their customers to “be mindful of how and when they use water,” according to the Denver Gazette.

Salt Lake City has already returned to their water shortage plan, which forces local, county, and state government facilities within its service area to cut irrigation and indoor water use by at least 10%, according to KSL.com.

Another water management agency in northern Utah recently sent out a letter to 16,000 of its customers, telling them they’ll rack up a $500 fine for exceeding 100% of their water allotment for 2026, and will have their secondary water shut off early as well.

That all this is happening in late March underscores the seriousness of the threat to water supplies throughout the West. Bullfrog Marina, a popular boat launch in Lake Powell, is relocating before runoff even gets to the reservoir, because boats can’t be launched at the current water levels.

Utah and Colorado aren’t alone in their efforts to curb water usage in the West, but they are among the first government entities to start talking about limits and restrictions. This comes as the West is likely finished with meaningful snow collection for the year, and is in the middle of an expanding heatwave that’s setting record-high temps across the region.

Wildfires have also erupted in Wyoming, with one near the Bighorn Mountains torching almost 2,000 acres and only 10% contained as of March 23.

How to Tie: An Easy Mayfly Nymph

In this week’s “How to Tie” feature, Fliesbyaspeen ties an easy mayfly nymph that trout anglers will find efficient on both vise and water, just in time for spring.

Learn How to Tie This Fly:

Difficulty: Easy

Spring is the essence of life and a warm turning point in the year. For many, it means the emergence of life as days become longer, color returns to the environment, and fauna is given the boost it needs to show itself again. Whether that be coming out of hibernation or wiggling out from the bottom of a rock and hatching on the surface of a river, many creatures rejoice in the return of warmth. There are many ways to celebrate this season, but tying an Easy Mayfly Nymph and wading into a river might just top any other.

There is certainly a pattern when it comes to productive flies: simplicity. Although you’ll find flies in fly shops that catch your eye all day long, the ones that fool trout more times than not are created with few materials and take no more than a few minutes to tie. As anglers, we will always strive to think outside the box and create the next best pattern but are also all guilty of switching back to the classics when fishing gets difficult. Hare’s ear and pheasant tail nymphs are perfect examples of how classic simplicity can generate productiveness on the water, and this Easy Mayfly Nymph is another to add to that list.

This pattern can be dead drifted, swung, or suspended behind another fly. One of my personal favorite methods is adding it into a double nymph rig off of a dropper tag, especially while conditions are still cold. With increasing temperatures or visual cues of a hatch, do not be afraid to drift this behind an adult mayfly as an emerger adventuring to the surface. There are many ways to fish this Easy Mayfly Nymph, and all of them will give you a great chance at hooking into a happy trout this spring.

Ingredients:

Now you know how to tie an Easy Mayfly Nymph!

Video courtesy of Fliesbyaspeen.

Why Mercury? First to the Flats with Benny Blanco

Take a step onto Benny Blanco’s skiff, and you’ll see a simple boat, no fancy electronic screens, a basic tacometer, and his Mercury outboard. Benny is a true waterman in this sense, not relying on fancy technology, but rather pure intuition gained from spending decades on the water. He navigates the endless channels, bays, and flats of South Florida like it’s the back of his hand, knowing exactly where to be on what tide, to catch a particular fish. Not only is he one of the best at his craft, but he’s also a pivotal voice for conservation. He’s a vocal part of Captains for Clean Water, an organization dedicated to fighting for a healthy Everglades, clean water, and thriving fisheries. Blanco does all this with the support of Mercury, both on and off the water. After spending a day on the water with Benny, it’s clear to see why.

Fishing South Florida

South Florida has an abundance of fishing opportunities, from exotics to offshore fishing; the possibilities are endless. One of the most attractive aspects of Florida fishing is its endless flats fishing. Tarpon, bonefish, permit, redfish, and snook all call these flats home, and all are exceptional targets for fly anglers. Benny Blanco’s passion lies here, guiding and chasing flats fish all year long.

A typical day on his home water, Biscayne Bay, starts as he pushes his skiff away from the dock. He puts through the channel, before heading to the flats in search of the bay’s three main target species: tarpon, bonefish, and permit. Flats fish are particular, moving around depending on tides, wind, and water temperatures. In Biscayne, for instance, wind direction can push water across the bay, stacking it on flats and delaying tides. When this happens, Benny draws from his time on the flats to know what flats will hold fish and at what stage in the tide cycle.

On the flats, Benny poles his skiff with an angler on the bow searching for the target species. This style of fishing feels more like hunting than anything else. Silently sliding across a flat, scanning likely areas for any sign of movement. When everything lines up just right, the fish show themselves and present the angler with an opportunity. After all is said and done, the process repeats itself, moving flats, following the tides, and finding fish. It’s an exercise in persistence, and a testament to Benny’s knowledge of South Florida. Day in and day out, Benny Blanco knows when and where to be regardless of the conditions he faces.

Why Mercury?

South Florida’s vast and demanding fisheries require a versatile skiff. For that, he relies on a Hells Bay Marathon, paired with a Mercury Pro XS 115 and equipped with Command Thrust. “The Marathon is the perfect boat for Biscayne Bay and South Florida,” says Blanco. “It’s an 18-foot hull that stays on top of the waves crossing big water on windy days, while still plenty capable of running shallow.” A good hull is one part of the equation; the motor is the other.

Benny Blanco chooses Mercury to power his skiffs, the biggest reason being reliability. “I need my engine to start day in and day out. As a guide, I make my living on the water and can’t be sacrificing days due to engine issues. My Mercury has never failed me.” As anglers, having gear you can rely on is crucial. In the flats fishing world, your motor is one piece of gear that can’t fail.

While reliability is the main reason Benny chooses Mercury, performance is also incredibly important. The Pro XS series of motors is tuned for power in a lightweight package. The 115 Pro XS weighs just 10-20 pounds more than other competitors 90hp motors. This allows Benny to gain the significant benefits of a 115, like better hole shot and top speed, without adding extra weight. “The power-to-weight ratio of the Mercury 115 Pro XS is a huge leg up in my style of fishing,” says Benny. “I can get up on a plane quicker and get to spots faster than I would with a 90, without sacrificing how my skiff sits and poles on the flats.”

The Pro XS series can also be paired with Mercury’s Command Thrust gearcase, which Blanco opted to do on his motor. Command Thrust features a larger gearcase that accommodates a bigger-diameter propeller, improving planing performance and delivering stronger low-end control for slow-speed maneuvering. This equates to more power, better hole shot, faster acceleration, and more control. For Benny, the ability to run a bigger prop and gain a better hole shot is a huge reason he chooses the Comman Thrust gearcase. As a guide, the amount of weight from clients and gear is constantly changing. The extra torque from the oversized prop ensures he gets on plane as fast as possible, regardless of weight. In addition, the added control is crucial for navigating tight channels, especially when wind is a factor.

The combination of the Pro XS performance and Command Thrust excels on the flats and high-stakes situations like tournaments. “Come tournament day, I need my motor to start every time and get me to the spots first, that’s why I choose the Mercury 115 Pro XS paired with the Command Thrust lower unit.”

The Future of the Flats

Benny Blanco relies on his Mercury outboard to get him to the flats first, without failure. But what good is getting their first, if there’s no fish on the flats? South Florida and Blanco’s home waters are facing a number of conservation issues, resulting in declining fisheries. Benny’s seen this decline in his time fishing the flats. Some areas are now void of fish altogether, while others have seen steep declines in the numbers and size of fish. For Benny, who has built his life around the water, protecting the flats and fisheries for future generations is the only option.

The tipping point for South Florida flats conservation came in 2016, when record-breaking red tide events caused massive fish die-offs on the west coast. Knowing something needed to change, Captain Daniel Andrews and Captain Chris Wittman formed Captains for Clean Water, a grassroots organization that fights for clean water and to restore the natural flow of the Everglades. Benny Blanco is an ambassador for Captains for Clean Water, pushing for policy change and water protection in South Florida. Every year, Mercury donates a motor to outfit the Captain’s Finest Skiff Giveaway, raising money to support the organization. Prioritizing what matters and protecting the Everglades and its fisheries is non-negotiable for Benny and a big part of why he chooses Mercury Marine. With the help of Mercury and like-minded captains and anglers, Blanco and Captains for Clean Water are making the needed change to preserve the flats and the fish we obsess over for generations to come.

Why Mercury? Motors to Makos with Conway Bowman

Guides fish hard, but for some, “fishing hard” goes further than just the effort they spend on the water. Captain Conway Bowman falls into the latter category. Bowman is a Southern California native, captain, and mako shark fly fisherman. Makos are among the fastest and baddest fish in the ocean, taking the meaning of “fishing hard” to another level. In his pursuit to tangle with makos, Conway is demanding of his gear. From fly reels to boats, everything needs to be built to withstand the abuse of the Pacific, including the engine. Since 2003, Bowman has relied on Mercury Outboards, and in a recent conversation, he told us why he chooses Mercury.

Mako Madness

San Diego and much of Southern California are unique in that deep pelagic waters are found in close proximity to the beach. In some places, just a mile offshore equates to 1,000 feet of water. For Conway, this means tangling with mako sharks in his backyard and getting creative with his boat setup. “Having such deep water so close to shore allows me to approach these fish (mako sharks) in a smaller boat like a center console or hybrid bay boat,” says Bowman. ” There’s really no place in the world where you have the dynamic of large game fish that close to shore, and that’s why it’s such an appealing place. For anglers and me as the captain, this means short run times and more time spent fishing.”

On the water, shark fishing may seem pretty straightforward. Put out a chum slick, drift for a while, and eventually a hungry, ravenous shark will make its way to the boat. According to Conway, that is far from the case. “Mako shark fishing is much harder than it seems. In my fishery, you have to hunt these fish and understand how to find big predators. They’re a pelagic fish and are constantly on the move.” In just a day, makos can travel 30-plus miles. For Bowman, this means fishing every day to stay on the fish.

Even a big shark will subtly sip a fly off the surface.

In a likely area, Conway will set out a chum slick. As the currents and winds spread the scent through the ocean, sharks will close in on the boat. He then readies a custom one-piece, 20-wt equivalent rod he makes himself, paired with a floating tube fly. As the fish approaches, Bowman makes a cast, strips the fly, and lets it flutter on the surface. “Over the years, I’ve observed makos come into the slick and chase a bird.
They don’t like them in the slick, and I think that’s what the flies imitate. The makos will either eat them (birds), or they’ll push them out,” says Conway. “When they eat the fly, it’s a really soft take, almost like a brown trout rising on a grasshopper, but that could be a 500-pound fish doing that.” What happens after is far from subtle.

A hooked mako shark can clear 800 yards of backing and fly line within minutes, all the while jumping 20 feet in the air. “Even with a 20-wt equivalent rod, you’re still fishing the ultimate light tackle on a giant game fish. It’s like hunting an elephant with a BB gun. The rod is just a tool to hold the fish there. The boat is what you’re fighting the fish with.” When the boat is the tool to land a 500-pound fish, a reliable motor is everything.

Why Mercury?

Since 2003, Conway Bowman has been running Mercury Outboards. At the time, he was one of the only guides running a Mercury in SoCal’s salt. “When I first started using Mercury, nobody used them out here in the saltwater, nobody. It was all bass guys on bass boats in freshwater. I was one of the first guys out here on the West Coast to use them in the salt, and I’m still using them today.” Conway currently powers his rig with a Mercury Verado 300 XL, a perfect balance between power and reliability.

Conway’s Verado 300 is mounted on a Caymas hybrid bay boat. The boat is rather bare bones with no T-top and an open deck layout. This is by design to minimize the boat’s profile and avoid spooking makos. “Since makos are predators, they don’t like things looking down on them. A higher elevated T-top, they see, and they come in really deep. So my boats are designed to sit lower in the water, and that really helps bring in those big fish.”


For Conway’s fishery, a dependable motor is essential. In over 20 years of using Mercury’s, he’s never had one fail. “Mercury’s are, for me, totally fail-proof. They are reliable,” says Bowman. “I’m on the water every single day, and I need a totally reliable outboard motor to get the job done. Whether it’s chasing down mako sharks or going for bluefin tuna, I need a motor that starts every time.”

While reliability is key in a motor, a plethora of other features make the Verado perfect for mako shark fishing. Conway’s engine is paired with the Mercury Digital Throttle and Shift (DTS) System. DTS is a digital throttle system, relying on a wiring harness, rather than traditional throttle cables. The results are instant engine responses and no missed shifts. Bowman chose this motor because, “It’s silky smooth. If I need to chase a fish, I can get up on step instantly. Makos can swim 40 miles an hour. So the boat’s ability to maneuver, chase fish, keep angles on them, and close the gap to get the release is all essential. That’s why my boat and Verado are so great.”

From Motors to Makos

Fly fishing for mako sharks is the epitome of big game fly fishing, but for Conway Bowman, it’s his life. “The ocean is freedom to me, that’s what it is.
What I’m doing, there are no boundaries, there are no guardrails. In a way, the mako shark is kind of a metaphor for me because that creature has no boundaries, no guardrails. It’s doing what it wants to do with nobody telling it what to do.” Every day chasing sharks, Conway proves this point, pushing the limits of what’s possible on a fly rod, and every day he relies on his Mercury to do that.