There’s something exciting about getting a last-minute invite on a fishing trip. The feeling of hasty packing, sorting through gear, and the element of the unknown. I guess I’m sort of a “Yes Man” when it comes to being invited somewhere I’ve never fished before. So when the email from Allie at Science on the Fly hit my inbox with the subject line “Fly Fishing in Brazil,” I felt a wave of butterflies.
Not unlike the butterflies your 8th-grade crush gave you. But now, at 32, that feeling usually comes from a new kind of thrill—a fishing adventure.
I hadn’t even replied before diving into research mode. Allie was inviting me to Kendjam Lodge, tucked deep in the Amazon rainforest and only accessible through special permits granted to the team at Untamed Angling.
After 30 minutes of looking at photos, watching YouTube videos, and reading testimonials, I typed out two simple words: “I’m in.”
The Journey to the Jungle
Three commercial flights, two taxis, an overnight in Manaus, a bush plane, and a three-hour boat ride later—I arrived at Kendjam Lodge.
Fly fishing, once again, had delivered me to one of the most remote and stunning places on the planet. After a few too many “how ‘bout that ride in” jokes, I got settled in with my roommate for the week—Nick Blixt from Patagonia, who was also invited as part of the Science on the Fly crew.
The lodge itself is modest but, in many ways, perfect. Comfortable, clean, and surrounded by wilderness. The Untamed Angling crew ran things like pros, and we had the honor of being joined by Rodrigo Salles, one of the company’s founders. Rodrigo isn’t just a savvy operator—he’s also deeply connected to the Kayapo people, who have embraced fly fishing tourism as part of their conservation and economic vision.
The Kayapo Connection
One of the first things I learned was the significance of the Kayapo tribe. This isn’t just a place we’re visiting—this is their home, their river, their story. They’ve partnered with Untamed to allow carefully permitted fly fishing on their land, drawn to the low-impact, catch-and-release nature of the sport.
That first night, after a jungle steak dinner, I lay in bed listening to birdsong and river flow, the whole forest humming with life. Tomorrow, we fish.
The Fishing Begins
Each fishing boat is crewed by a world-class guide (from all over the world) and a local Kayapo guide. Somehow, my guide turned out to be Ciru, a guy I’d fished with years ago in Argentina. That small-world feeling hits differently when you’re this far from home.
The boats are customized for the Iriri River, with engines and props built to navigate tight jungle channels. The water? Gin clear. The vibe? Dreamlike and riddled with anticipation.
We fished drift-boat style, casting poppers and streamers as we moved through the runs. The backdrop looked fake—like a video game or dreamscape. But when a Peacock Bass slammed my fly and bent my rod over, I snapped back into the present.
The Fishery of a Lifetime
The main target is Peacock Bass, but Kendjam is all about diversity. Throughout the week, we caught payara, wolf fish, pacu, bicuda, matrinchã, and more. Part of the allure of such a remote fishery is not knowing what may take your fly. The style of fishing is also something incredibly unique. One of my favorite ways to target fish was wading on foot and throwing big dry flies to toothy critters.
For pacu, I used a 5-weight trout rod with a dry fly. For wolf fish, a big black streamer with a wire leader. Then back to a 7-weight with a floating line and a popper for peacocks.
This isn’t where you come to chase record-breaking monsters (although you can)—it’s where you come for species variety, surreal jungle beauty, and deep cultural connection.
Science Meets Fly Fishing
Amid the adventure, it was easy to forget that we were also there with a mission: Science on the Fly.
This nonprofit community science program empowers anglers to collect water samples from rivers around the world. That data helps scientists track the health of global watersheds, especially in remote and vulnerable regions.
Allie Cunningham, Science on the Fly’s director, partnered with Rodrigo and Untamed Angling to begin monitoring the Iriri River. Each group of anglers collected water samples and temperature data—part of a long-term project to understand how Amazonian rivers are changing over time.
The realization here is brilliant: fly fishing is the perfect platform to gather meaningful environmental data. Fishing guides and scientists—who would’ve thought?
A Week of Wonder
The days blurred in the best way. Every corner of the river brought a new species, a new moment, a new memory.
The jungle has a way of stripping things down to their rawest form. You become more alert, more grateful. And you start to see fishing not just as a sport, but as a way of understanding and honoring a place.
On to the Next One
With a full heart and a thousand new stories, I packed my bag and left two days early to explore the Rio Marié with Rodrigo—(stay tuned for that one…)
But Kendjam? That one will stick with me for a long time.
Want to Learn More?
🔬 Science on the Fly – Join the citizen science movement
🎣 Untamed Angling – Explore lodges like Kendjam and Rio Marié
