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Winston Air 2 Fly Rod: A Long Haul Review

The Long Haul review series is crafted to give you an honest, in-depth look at how products perform over time. After the marketing hype of launch day fades, are the latest and greatest tools of our trade living up to their billing? Or have they left us wanting? In this review, we’re looking at a personal favorite of mine—the Winston Air 2.

The Air 2 is Winston’s flagship lineup of rods, available in weights 3 through 8, with a focus on the most popular length and weight configurations. The rod I’ll review in depth today is the 9′ 6-weight, which I’ve owned since shortly after the rod debuted a few years ago. It’s frequently picked out for a day of throwing dry-dropper rigs, streamers from a drift boat, or if I know it’ll be windier than usual, and I’d like some extra backbone.

All products featured on Flylords are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Winston Air 2 Fly Rod

Winston Air 2

FreeFly Elevate Hoodie

Rod Specs:

  • Size tested: 9′ 6-weight
  • Intended use: multi-application trout fishing (larger dry flies, nymph rigs, streamers)
  • Action: Moderate
  • MSRP: $1,195.00

Pros:

  • Smooth and sensitive
  • Throws large dries and average-sized streamers wonderfully
  • Accurate and light

Cons:

  • Price
  • The “Winston Feel” isn’t for everyone

The Skinny

Winston’s Air 2 lineup is a serious upgrade over the previous Air series. These rods are made with a new resin and graphite mixture, which essentially means you’re getting a lighter and stronger rod. These rods are noticeably lighter in swing weight than the Air or B3x rods of yesteryear.

The 9′ 6-weight comes with a traditional Winston Cigar grip, which is a modified reverse half-wells. That grip belies the rod’s ability to throw larger rigs with ease, which in my eyes, makes this a true 6-weight. It has the backbone to handle larger flies, and even streamers and sink-tip lines, but Winston still built it with the notion in mind that a 6-weight can also be a good dry-fly rod in the right angler’s hands. The tip is soft enough for tippets down to 6x, and with the right line, the rod will present flies down to a size 18 or 20 with plenty of grace. This won’t ever replace your 8’6″ 4-weight for laser-like precision and soft presentations, but in a pinch, it’ll do.

I’ve fished this rod primarily with Scientific Anglers’ Amplitude Infinity line, and the half-weight heavy design of that line helps the rod load well and throw tight, fast loops, even against the wind.

Despite the rod’s quicker action, it’s still a moderate stick by industry standards, and has that same progressive Winston feel that’s made the rods so famous for so many years. Again, this is a 6-weight that feels like a 5-weight that goes to the gym regularly. Stout, strong, and impressive, but without the heft and bulk of a 7-weight.

You’ll have plenty of feedback during the casting process, even if dialing in the right casting cadence can be tougher for some anglers with a slower rod, like a Winston. Like any fly rod, your accuracy with the Air 2 depends largely on your own casting mechanics, but the Air 2 is inherently accurate. It’s stable and generates nice, tight loops that a good caster can deliver on target.

The Time Test

I’ve had this 9′ 6-weight Air 2 for a while now, and on days when I know I’m throwing hopper-dropper rigs, fishing from a boat, or tossing larger nymph rigs, it’s become my go-to stick. It’s great with streamers and sink-tips lines as well, although I’m starting to favor 7-weights for most of my streamer work these days.

This rod does great throwing my usual summer setup of a Chubby Chornobyl and either a Zirdle Bug or Pat’s Rubberlegs as the dropper. Even with a clunky pair of flies like that, I’m able to get my flies where they need to be most of the time.

The Air 2 is a wonderful casting tool for those who enjoy a more moderate action. Although faster by Winston standards, it’s not in the same league as the Orvis Helios, Sage R8, or even the Scott Session. I grew up fishing rods like Winstons, and a Winston was my first big-ticket purchase more than a decade ago, so I’ve come to love their slower, more purposeful casting rhythm. The 6-weight Air 2 continues that tradition, and it’s not hard for the rod to generate nice, tight loops, out past 60 feet.

Over my years of owning it, I haven’t broken the rod or noticed any manufacturing defects. Winston has pretty great quality control, and their rods are consistently the best-looking production sticks in the market, in my opinion. If I ever do need to warranty this rod, I’m not worried about the process at all.

What stands out to me the most about the 6-weight Air 2 is that it’s a rod I keep coming back to. I’m lucky in that I get to fish and review quite a few rods throughout the year. When I’m not actively reviewing other sticks, it’s usually this Air 2 in my hands if the situation calls for it.

And I know I’ve said this earlier, but it bears repeating—this is the sort of 6-weight I think a lot of us expect, but that rod makers weren’t building for a while. It’s a beefed-up 5-weight, with the backbone to handle wind, larger flies, and larger fish. It’s not a wimpy 7-weight, designed primarily for streamer fishing. I think 6-weights got a bad rap for a few years because they were all built to be ultra-fast, powerful rods, instead of taking what I see as their natural place: the rod you reach for during hopper season, or for throwing stoneflies, or chucking heavy nymph rigs from the boat.

My Recommendation

If you’re an angler who wants a bit more power and backbone in your rod, but still want the versatility to fish smaller dry flies should the situation call for it, the Air 2 9′ 6-weight is worth a look.

If you enjoy fly casting, have solid mechanics, and love feedback from your rod, the Air 2 is definitely worth your consideration. And if you want what I consider the best-looking production rod on the market (not that aesthetics matters, but they do in some intangible way), then the Air 2 should be near the top of your list.

If you want a 6-weight that will serve more as your streamer stick, or large nymph rig rod, then you might want to look elsewhere. The Air 2, at least in the 9′ 6-weight variety, has more in its bag than that.

You’ll pay $1,195 for the Air 2, which is steep. But that’s the cost of top-tier rods these days, and if you’re in the market for the best you can buy, then the Air 2 needs to be at the top of your list.

How to Optimize Your Drift Boat Storage

Fly fishing boats are tight spaces by design. Between rods, fly line, nets, and all the random essentials that pile up over the course of a day, it doesn’t take much for a clean setup to turn into a mess. Once gear starts being misplaced and ending up underfoot, efficiency goes out the window, and frustration creeps in fast.

Whether you’re rowing a raft or running a drift boat, good boat storage has less to do with how much gear you bring and more to do with where it lives. There’s no perfect setup that works for every boat, but there are a handful of ideas that hold up no matter what you’re rowing. The goal is simple: keep the stuff you actually use close, keep the fly line clear, and keep everything else from bouncing around.

All products featured on Flylords are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Rafts and drift boats handle storage differently. Drift boats usually come with built-in dry boxes, trays, and side storage. Rafts rely more on frames, straps, and bags. Even identical boats will rely on different storage options. Depending on preference and whether you’re guiding clients, fishing with buddies, or running solo. Instead of copying someone else’s layout, it makes more sense to take a few universal ideas and make them work for how you fish.

Tip 1: Start With the Stuff Under Your Feet

Most storage problems show up around your feet first. Fly line, anchor rope, loose nets, and random bags all tend to end up right where you don’t want them. I’ve found that if the cockpit floor stays clean, everything else feels easier.

One thing that’s helped more than I expected is running a dedicated net holder. Nets are one of those items that tend to end up in the wrong place. Left on the floor, they get stepped on, kicked, buried under bags, or somehow disappear right when a fish is on.

On drift boats, fixed holders like those from Adipose Boatworks are nice because the net snaps in and stays put. You always know where it is, and it’s not sliding around the cockpit. Magnetic options like the Cling Mag Grab Net Rack can also work depending on your setup. The product matters less than the idea that the net should live in one spot, off the floor, and be easy to grab without thinking about it.

Tip 2: Corral the Small Stuff

The fastest way to clutter a boat is with small items. Fly boxes, tippet, floatant, weights, knives, sunscreen, and first-aid all add up fast. There have been some days when it feels like more time is spent digging through bags than fishing, just because nothing has a secure, dedicated place. 

Hard-sided boxes solve this better than anything I’ve used. They keep things dry, organized, and contained. A lot of boats run a larger box like the YETI GoBox 30 or 60 for most essentials. On some setups, running two smaller YETI GoBox 15 boxes on either side of the rower works just as well and lets you spread things out a bit more. Pelican cases do the same job and are easy to customize depending on what you want inside. 

There are also many soft-sided boat bags out there that aim to do the same thing, but I have found that clips tend to hold up better than zippers in wet conditions, and hard boxes are easy to strap down, so they’re not sliding around. The real advantage is knowing exactly where things are. When your essentials always live in the same box, you stop digging and start fishing.

Give Flies a Place to Land

Taking care of your flies is another small thing that makes a big difference. Whether you’ve got flies on deck for an upcoming rig or used flies you need to dry out, having a dedicated spot to park them between fish keeps things cleaner and makes rig changes faster.

Something like the Tacky Fly Dock or the Cling Boat Bar gives flies a home without adding clutter. Foam or magnetic, mounted on a box lid or boat sidewall, the idea is the same. Flies not in use go there, not wherever they land. It’s a small thing, but on days with frequent fly changes, it keeps things running smoothly.

Tip 3: Strap Down the Heavy Stuff

Most of the gear that causes problems does so because it moves when you don’t want it to. Dry bags, spare oars, and anchor lines don’t cause problems sitting still, but they can get annoying fast when things get bumpy.

Low-profile straps are simple and do the job without creating extra clutter. Spare oars can be held in purpose-built holders or just strapped down cleanly. On drift boats, spare oar mounts, like the one from QuickFist, keep things tidy and predictable. On rafts, the NRS spare oar keeper or a couple well placed straps do the trick. 

While not imperative, anchor lines are another easy win. A rope bag keeps excess line contained, feeds smoothly, and keeps coils from piling up at your feet. Any mesh rope bag secured to the frame or attached to the siding will work. It has been one of these small changes that makes the boat feel cleaner.

It isn’t about being perfect. It’s just about cutting down on stuff sliding, banging, or ending up where you don’t want it.

Aerial view of a boat interior with fishing gear, YETI coolers, and a person holding a paddle. Water visible outside.

Out of Sight, Out of the Way

Not everything you bring on the boat needs to be easy to grab. Extra layers, food, pumps, life jackets, and spare gear don’t need to live in the cockpit, but it does need to stay dry and put. On boats without much built-in storage, especially rafts, this is where dry bags and permanent dry boxes really shine.

If you don’t have built-in storage, your favorite dry bag tied down solves lots of problems. It’s not about finding the perfect bag; it’s about committing to a spot, tying it down cleanly, and not letting it float around in the boat all day. 

For larger rafts, adding a permanent aluminum dry box can be a game-changer if you have the space. Whether it’s a prefab box or something custom, a fixed dry box gives you a place to stash bulkier gear and forget about it. For multi-day floats or gear-heavy trips, that kind of stability is hard to beat. One solid box replaces a handful of bags and keeps the deck way cleaner.

Final Thoughts

There’s no perfect boat setup. Every raft and drift boat ends up a little different, and it should. The setups that work best are the ones that match how you actually fish and stay mostly the same from trip to trip.

Good storage doesn’t magically make you catch more fish, but it does make the day smoother. Less time messing with gear usually means more time paying attention to the water and the people in the boat, which is usually when things start to go right.

The Drift: Do We Care Too Much About Fly Rods?

2026 F3T Behind the Lens: Black Sheep

Jako Lucas is no stranger to the Fly Fishing Film Tour, nor far-off, stoke-filled destination fishing adventures. For this installment of F3T Behind the Lens, we sat down with the team behind Black Sheep: Jako Lucas of CaptainJack Productions and Wade Kelly of Flow State Productions. Black Sheep and this formidable team take us deep into the Bolivian Jungle to chase pacu on dry flies. This technical fishery is described as a freshwater permit—for good reason, too. Follow along to learn more about this adventure and the making of this riveting F3T Film, Black Sheep.


Flylords: Wade, can you tell us a bit about yourself?

Wade: My name is Wade Kelly, and I’m the founder and Managing Director of Flow State Productions. We specialize in end-to-end digital solutions, serving solely outdoor brands in Videography/films, marketing/socials, websites, and design. I’m an avid outdoorsman, angler, spear fisherman, backcountry hiker, and bow hunter. Everyone who works with us must meet the criteria of “outdoorsman/woman,” haha. I started this business with one camera and one lens a decade ago, and now we’re a fully fledged small but efficient digital agency servicing outdoor brands all over the world.

Flylords: Black Sheep, the film’s title, carries some symbolic undertones. How did you all arrive at this title? 

Wade: The concept is a multifaceted metaphor and came from the fact that Pacu are considered a ‘bycatch’ or undervalued species compared to Dorado (which is what everyone comes to target), making them a “black sheep” of sorts. The same goes for us, completely pivoting the film and going against the grain of a typical Bolivian Dorado film. Plus, pacu also have a dark black coloration, giving the title a more literal meaning, too.

Flylords: Tell us about the Pacu and where you find them. 

Jako: As I mentioned in the film, whenever people mention fishing in Bolivia, all conversations lead to Dorado. However, I always thought that people were sleeping on Pacu. Pacu are in the same family (Serrasalmidae) as piranhas, but not only do Pacu get much larger, they are also omnivorous. So we can target them in various ways on the fly, whether it be streamers or dry flies. They do love feeding on fruits/nuts that fall from trees and float down the river.

Big dry flies are key for targeting pacu.

They are native to the Amazon and Orinoco basins. In this film, we were fishing various rivers in Tsimane, Bolivia. In most cases, we were fishing in small, crystal clear water. Basically, a trout river in the jungle. And to top it all off, we were targeting them with dry flies. Mostly big yellow or green hopper patterns. I believe most of the time, they probably thought it was just a big fruit floating down the river. They can be pretty picky, but once they eat that fly, all hell breaks loose. They have so much power with that round body, and I think they fight much harder than Dorado, in my opinion. 

Flylords: When did you first decide to make a Pacu fly fishing film?

Wade: Jako has been to Bolivia many times, however this was my first. The trip started on the typical Dorado-focused mission until we hit a few larger pools of water and caught a few nice Pacu on large dry fly hoppers, to which I was stunned. After discussing it with Jako, he confirmed that there weren’t really any films out with Pacu as a focus, so we decided to pivot. Pacu on a dry fly is such a visual spectacle that we just couldn’t ignore it. This, coupled with the fact that the fishing for the ‘trophy model’ Dorado was hard going, although we managed a handful of really nice ones that are incorporated into the film.

Flylords: A few years ago, I interviewed you for the Costa film “4 of a Kind,” which highlighted your quest for all the permit subspecies. Pacu have been described as a freshwater permit. What are some of the similarities between the two? 

Jako: Just like Permit, Pacu can drive you insane. You can make the perfect presentation, the fish swims right over to your fly, inspect it, and refuse the fly, leaving you questioning your life decisions. And then some days, they will just race over and smoke the fly. But just like Permit, you need to have confidence in every part of your angling ability, be able to roll with the punches, and stay confident. 

Flylords: Walk us through a classic Pacu shot and your go-to Pacu setup. 

Jako: All the fishing in Bolivia is done hiking upriver. They live in pretty small but deep pools in the river. So approach is key, especially with the clear water. Pacu are very aware of their surroundings. Interestingly enough, Pacu are very sensitive to sound. Very often, when they hear a sound in the water, like footsteps, they would go investigate. They usually think it is a tapir, a mammal that lives in the jungle. The tapir goes into the river to get away from horse flies, and they also go into the river to poop. Believe it or not, Pacu will key in on the poop for food scraps.

Luckily, Pacu are very easy to spot in the river, with their big, round, black bodies. Once they hear the noise, you should be ready to get the fly in front of them, and this can happen really quickly. The presentation can land pretty hard, as it imitates the plop of the fruit or nut. If they like what they hear and see, they will swim over and investigate. The eat can be pretty savage, or they could just slurp the fly. Once they eat, it is important to get a proper strip set. But be careful of the quick turn and burn. Then, try to get close as they can run you around the rocks. After that, just hope and pray. 

Flylords: Making a fishing film deep in a foreign country is hard enough, but you all were deep in a jungle hundreds of miles away from anything. Were there any major mishaps/challenges you can share now that you all successfully produced a fantastic film? 

Wade: My business is solely built on cinematic content and marketing for outdoor brands. That statement alone means that we are required to take minimal yet cinematic equipment into crazy remote places and produce films that would usually have a larger crew and equipment associated with it. However, this is impossible due to flights, logistics, and the sheer physicality of the locations. The Bolivian Amazon is no exception. We drowned 2 lenses, a drone, and lost action cams, among a number of other things. That, coupled with humidity, vegetation, insects, rain, heat and walking for miles up river over boulders, swimming and climbing; it really made for a difficult but extremely rewarding trip. The last 2 days, we only had 1 lens left, so we were constantly swapping it between still and video cameras. It was a WILD time. We wouldn’t have it any other way.  

Flylords: What were some other key pieces of gear you all found essential deep in the jungle? 

Wade: For me, it is 1000% a robust waterproof Yeti Panga Backpack. Second to that, it was fishing tights because the sand flies are INSANE. 

Flylords: Thirty-pound dorado is pretty epic bycatch. How hard was it to remain focused on sightfishing Pacu? 

Jako: Man, I have always said that I will catch anything that swims. So it’s very hard to stay focused. I have been pretty lucky to catch some dinosaur dorado, and I love Pacu fishing, especially how we did it, with dry flies. We were also pretty locked in, but we did stray off the goal every now and then.

Flylords: Chasing Pacu deep in the Bolivian jungle is not your run-of-the-mill destination trip. Any recommendations for folks who now want to up their dry-fly game with a Pacu? 

Jako: As I mention to my clients a lot when destination fishing, it is good to have a target species or a goal, but make the most of any situation to catch what is in front of you. We do live in a world of social media, which often makes things look much easier than they are. If you want to catch a Pacu on a dry fly, make sure you can cast a good line quickly. Bolivia is also a very physical destination; hiking up those rivers is no joke. So fitness can help you be focused when the opportunity presents itself. I think it is very important for us to be more transparent on the fishing abilities required for these exotic locations. You can travel a long way to some of the most remote places in the world, but it will still come with its challenges.

Watch the Film

The 2026 Fly Fishing Film Tour is on the road, bringing another exciting lineup of captivating stories from the water to the big screen. If you want to watch the films in this year’s Behind the Lens series, check out the F3T Tour Schedule and purchase tickets for a show near you!

Brook Trout Making Comeback In Adirondacks

Native brook trout require cold and clean water found in headwater streams.

Brook trout are making a comeback in the Adirondack Mountains in New York, according to new research from the United States Geological Survey (USGS). The research looked at streams that were vacant of fish as recently as 1989, due to acid rain in the region. Of the 42 streams surveyed in this research, 33 are now home to wild, native populations of brook trout.

The study authors largely credit the 1990 amendment to the Clear Air Act (CAA) for the gains that have been made in water quality, which have allowed the brook trout to return to their historical native range.

“Very few people know how successful the 1990 amendment to the CAA has been at improving conditions in 1000s of lakes and streams across the northeastern United States,” the study authors wrote.

In particular, the 1990 amendment and following regulations decreased the amounts of monomeric aluminum, which was one of the leading contaminants in the brook trout’s range due to acid rain in the region.

Around the same time that this study was published, News 10 out of Albany, New York, also reported that the state’s Department of Environmental Conservation finalized a “15-year ‘Adirondack Brook Trout Pond Management Plan’ on January 5. To protect wild populations, the plan prioritizes self-sustaining fish over stocked hatchery trout and bans using live baitfish in most Adirondack Park waters.”

This gives the brook trout another safeguard as they continue to recolonize habitat they occupied for most of the 20th century.

How Trout Evolved Through History

When you think of trout, you probably picture places like Montana, Patagonia, or New Zealand. That makes sense, because that’s where a lot of modern trout culture lives. But trout did not originate in those places. The deeper story is one of ancient trout history, shaped in Europe and western Asia, and it starts so far back that the landscape itself looked nothing like it does today.

Brown trout and their close relatives are the product of millions of years of environmental change. Much of what separates trout populations today was shaped during repeated ice ages, when glaciers expanded and retreated across the Northern Hemisphere. As ice advanced, rivers were buried or rerouted. As ice melted, new waterways formed. Drainage systems that are completely separate today were once connected, sometimes for thousands of years at a time.

Trout expanded when freshwater systems were connected and became isolated when those connections disappeared. Given enough time, isolation produced real differences. That ancient separation still shows up today in what trout look like and how they behave.

Brown Trout Evolution

Ice Age and Separation

The Pleistocene epoch began about 2.6 million years ago and ended roughly 11,700 years ago. During that span, glacial cycles repeatedly reshaped Europe and western Asia. A basin that looks isolated on a modern map may have been part of a much larger connected system.

Long-term isolation within river basins can produce distinct trout populations, even without large geographic barriers. Over thousands of years, populations trapped in separate basins adapted to different conditions. Food availability, flow variability, temperature range, and predation pressure all pushed those populations in different directions.

Modern genetics reflects this history. What anglers call “brown trout” is not one uniform fish, but a collection of lineages shaped by where trout survived when conditions were worst and where they could expand when conditions improved.

​​Salmo species in the Euphrates River basin, illustrating trout populations across eastern Anatolia. Source: Turan et al. 2021.

Anatolia and the Tigris-Euphrates Region (Eastern Turkey)

Eastern Turkey sits at the intersection of Europe and Asia and contains some of the most complex freshwater history anywhere trout exist. Rivers here drain toward the Tigris and Euphrates, systems that have repeatedly shifted, connected, and separated over long spans of time. This region has never been hydrologically simple, and trout here reflect that.

Recent scientific work shows that trout in the Tigris–Euphrates region are not just local variations of a single brown trout. Researchers have formally described multiple native trout species restricted to specific rivers and tributaries, including Salmo baliki, a species described in 2021 from the Murat River, a major tributary of the Euphrates. Other species, such as Salmo munzuricus and Salmo tigridis, are confined to nearby but separate systems. These fish are not stocking remnants or recent offshoots. They are endemic species recognized based on consistent physical traits and genetic evidence.

Physically, trout from this region often differ noticeably from what many anglers think of as a typical brown trout. Some populations appear deeper-bodied, with more subdued coloration and distinct spotting patterns. Those differences vary river to river, which matches what scientists see genetically: trout in neighboring drainages can be less closely related to each other than to populations farther away. That pattern reflects ancient freshwater connections that no longer exist, rather than the geography shown on modern maps.

What makes this region especially compelling is that scientists are still identifying trout diversity here. New species are being described not because the fish recently changed, but because their history is only now being fully understood. The trout of eastern Anatolia carry the record of millions of years of shifting rivers, rising and falling water, and repeated separation. A process that began long before humans shaped these landscapes or named these rivers.

Distribution of Salmo species in the Euphrates River basin. Source: Turan et al. 2021.

The History Trout Carry

Ancient separation helps explain something anglers experience but rarely connect. Some trout populations tolerate disturbance and feed opportunistically, while others are cautious and selective. Modern pressure can reinforce or alter these behaviors, but the baseline tendencies reflect long-term adaptation to local conditions that existed long before humans were part of these systems.

This also helps explain why fly patterns often translate across continents more easily than fishing assumptions do. Patterns rely on broad visual and behavioral triggers. Movement, risk tolerance, and feeding behavior are shaped locally, over deep time, by the environments trout evolved in.

The diversity anglers see now is the result of repeated glacial cycles that reshaped rivers and seas over millions of years. Many of the fish grouped under a single name are the descendants of ancient water systems that no longer exist in their original form.

Get Paid To Catch Lake Trout In Colorado

The Drift: The Real Key To Catching Fish

The Drift: Are Fly Rod Warranties Worth It?

While working in a fly shop once, an angler came in with a broken rod that he needed help sending in for warranty work. The manufacturer of the rod offered complete replacements, but did request that the angler explain how the rod was broken. They wouldn’t hold the angler at fault, but they wanted to get as much information about the break as they could, to determine if it was a manufacturing defect or—and much more likely—user error.

This angler got pretty upset with me when I shared that part of the warranty process with him.

“It’s a lifetime warranty!” He hollered. “It shouldn’t matter how I broke it!”

“The company just wants to know,” I replied. “They’re replacing the entire rod anyways. They’re just curious.”

So, he showed me the rod. The butt section was snapped through the middle of the cork grip, and there were dark smudges on either side of the break. To me, it looked like he’d run over the rod with his truck. It happens, and again, the rod company was going to replace the entire rod.

“Alright, looks like you ran it over, I’ll just put that in the notes,” I said, starting to type on the computer.

“No, I didn’t run it over,” he snapped. “It broke while I was casting.”

I stared at him for a minute, because I thought he was joking. To his credit, he kept a straight face.

“You snapped it through the cork while casting?” I asked.

“Yep.”

“What were you casting, a whole chicken?”

He didn’t think that was funny, and he got increasingly frustrated while I tried to convince him it wouldn’t matter what he told the rod company; they just wanted the truth. He wouldn’t budge, so eventually I sent in the warranty paperwork with pictures of the break, explaining that “the customer broke it during the cast.”

He got his free replacement rod, the company got the broken one back, and that was the first time I started to wonder if fly rod warranties were actually worth it. Not for the angler, because I think they’re invaluable to us. I’ve fixed my beloved 9′ 5-weight Winston B3x a handful of times, and each break was my fault. $150 for an at-fault repair, and my favorite rod is back in my hands, good as new. That’s a great deal, if you ask me.

For rod companies, though, I’ve always wondered how the math shakes out. I know they’re not going to offer a service or product they’ll lose money on—that’s just bad business—but I heard from a friend who works in the business that the largest fly rod manufacturer, by volume, is Sage. The second largest is their repair department.

I don’t know if that’s true, but it sort of drives home the point that rod companies are spending an inordinate amount of time fixing our mistakes. Because mostly, rods break due to our own mistakes. Manufacturing defects, while they happen, are rare.

I broke the tip on a rod once because I threw a bad cast, and my mouse fly smacked into the rod just one guide down from the tip-top. That shattered the tip completely and ended my night of fishing.

Another rod broke on me, seemingly on its own. When going to net a fish, the tip snapped about halfway down. Upon inspection, it looked like the tip had been repeatedly hit with heavy nymphs, and one smack plus the stress of landing a fish was all it took for the graphite to finally snap.

On each of those rods, I paid the repair fees, waited my allotted time, and got the rods back good as new. Like I said, it’s a great setup for us anglers. But I’ve often wondered if this “free ride” will end anytime soon.

Even when I’ve had to wait extended periods of time for warranty work, I still feel like I came out on the better end of the deal. I had to wait almost 5 months for one of my repairs on a Winston, and I’ve heard of similar wait times from Sage and Scott. Most of us have more than one fly rod, though, so breaking one doesn’t automatically put us out of the game.

Then again, all this warranty work keeps customers mostly happy, and I’m sure the rod companies are making some sort of profit on it. Will the bubble burst at some point, though? Or is the rod warranty here to stay, in some fashion, for the foreseeable future?

FlyFishingJobs.com Relaunches With New Design

Flyfishingjobs.com, an industry-specific job board that hosts everything from openings for new guides to marketing positions, has relaunched with a brand-new design.

This ground-up rebuild of their website means folks who are looking for a job in fly fishing can do so through a “modernized platform [that] offers a faster, more intuitive experience for employers and job seekers alike,” according to a press release.

The rebuilt site features cleaner listings, an improved navigation experience, and better search and sharing tools, so you’ll be able to quickly find the position you’re looking for. For those posting jobs, the site also includes better distribution and visibility towards targeted audiences, ensuring that your job posting gets in front of the right people.

“Just as important as usability is trust,” said Tim Romano, owner of Fly Fishing Jobs. “Imitator job boards and scam sites come and go, but FlyFishingJobs is backed by 20 industry years of real people, credible media distribution, and proven results.”

Romano is part of the team behind Angling Trade Media and Flylab, and FlyFishingJobs.com is heavily linked to those teams. Job listings at the website will be sent out to 8,000 industry email inboxes, alongside a push on Instagram.

If you’re looking for a job in fly fishing, the site also gives you free resume posting to help you stand out in a crowded field.

You can browse current listings, or post one yourself, or just look around the redesigned site, here.

Tying The World’s Most Realistic Fly

Screenshot

A Note from Leighton Phillips (@fatbuffaloflies):

“The fly has been 10 years in the design with many failed attempts over the years.

Made for an art display and as far as I know it’s entirely unique/one off. I saw a video many years ago of a hatching Dragonfly and set myself the challenge to recreate it in fly tying. The shuck is hollow and made from Swiss straw over a 40lb mono frame. Its part of a series of emergers I’m making including a hatching Damselfly and mayfly too.

I’ve been tying 30 years and the last 10 years have been art flytying. I have been banned from social media groups and had difficulties posting my flies overseas due to the realism of them.”

Reel of the Week from Leighton, be sure to follow FatBuffaloFlies on Instagram for more!


The Drift: Are Fly Rod Warranties Worth It?

How to Tie: The Red Tag Nymph

Fly Fishing 101: How To Choose Your First Fly Rod

Walk into any fly shop, or browse around online, and you’ll quickly realize there are more fly rod choices out there than questionable food at a casino buffet. In this case, though, picking a less-than-stellar rod won’t give you food poisoning, so there’s a lot less risk involved.

All kidding aside, picking out your first fly rod isn’t as tough as it seems. You just need to go into the process able to answer a few key questions and understand a few simple terms.

What does a rod’s line weight mean?

Fly rods are classified according to two things: their length and line weight. We’ll dive into length in a minute, but let’s clear up line weight first.

In fly fishing, the line we use to cast is weighted, and our flies don’t weigh much. This is in contrast to conventional angling, where your lure is weighted, and your line doesn’t weigh much. So, your fly rod is designed to cast this heavy, weighted fly line; more specifically, your rod is built to cast a certain weight of fly line.

Fly line weights range from 0 to 14, with 0 being the lightest and 14 being the heaviest. The heavier line you’re using, the larger flies you’re able to cast. Generally speaking, when you use larger flies, you’re also able to catch larger fish, so a lot of big fish are caught on heavier-weight rods. Fly fishing in the ocean, for example, often utilizes 8, 9, and 10-weight rods to throw large streamers imitating crabs or baitfish in front of bonefish, permit, snook, and even tarpon.

A 3 or 4-weight rod is perfect for smaller flies and smaller fish. Think trout in the high country, or panfish at the local pond.

Pike and bass rods are often in the 7 to 8-weight range, and musky fishing often uses 9 or 10-weight rods.

So again, to boil it all down: fly rods are rated based on the line they’re designed to throw. The higher the number, the larger and heavier the fly that the rod can effectively cast and place in front of fish. For a more detailed breakdown, check out our guide to fly rod weights.

Does rod length matter?

Fly rods come in all sorts of sizes, from short 6-foot rods to ones topping out closer to 14 feet.

Generally, the shorter a rod is, the more accurately that rod will cast your fly line and flies. But longer rods give you the ability to make longer casts, reach across water to ensure drag-free drifts, and a bit more power and backbone for fighting wind or large fish.

That’s why you’ll see most fly rods sold in a length of 9 feet. This is the sweet spot between accuracy, reach, and power, and a 9-foot rod is a good length for a vast majority of fly fishing applications.

hardy rod
Last week, the Flylords team headed to the Flaming Gorge in Dutch John to capture some imagery around these rods.

What about rod action?

Finally, you’ll also hear rods described by their action—fast, moderate, or slow. Action is just a term that refers to how much a rod bends during the cast.

A fast-action rod bends in the tip section of the rod. A moderate, or medium, action rod bends in the top-third to top half of the rod. A slow-action rod bends from the tip, all the way down to the cork grip.

Generally, the slower a rod’s action, the more feel and feedback you’ll get during the casting process. This is key for learning how to cast a fly rod, since good fly casting all comes down to feeling the rhythm of the fly line moving through the air. However, slower-action rods are less forgiving of mistakes, so a lot of beginners get sold fast-action rods that sacrifice feel in exchange for a shorter learning curve on casting.

Picking a moderate-action rod is your best bet. You get some of the benefits of a fast-action rod’s forgiveness, but you retain enough feel and feedback that you’ll quickly learn what a good cast feels like.

Now that we’ve got those terms defined, let’s answer a few questions to figure out exactly which rod you should pick.

What kind of fishing will you be doing?

This is the most important question to answer, because this determines what sort of rod weight you’re looking for.

If you’re like most people who take up fly fishing, you’re probably interested in chasing trout in rivers or smaller lakes. In that case, rods in the 4, 5, or 6-weight range are your best bet.

Remember, since a 4-weight is lighter than a 6-weight, a 4-weight will be more suited to throwing smaller dry flies and small nymphs. It’s not the best rod for throwing streamers with.

A 6-weight is better for larger dry flies and nymph rigs and is great for use with streamers.

A 5-weight is the do-it-all rod of the trout fishing world. It’s light enough to handle most dry fly work, but stout enough to throw streamers and heavy nymph rigs. It’s like the .30-06 of fly fishing. With a well-placed shot, a .30-06 can take down any wildlife in North America. With a good 5-weight, you can tackle most any trout fishing situation you find yourself in.

If you’ll primarily be fishing for bass, you’ll want to look at 6, 7, or 8-weight rods. Bass flies are larger and heavier, so you want a heavier line weight to effectively put these in front of fish.

If you plan to go after panfish or smaller trout, a 3, 4, or 5-weight might be a better choice.

Bowfin on Fly Rod

Have you ever fly fished before?

If you’ve gone out fishing before, with a guide or just with a friend, you might have a better idea of what sort of rod you like, or don’t like. So, if you’ve fly fished before, think back on that experience. What did you like or dislike about the rod you used?

This might seem like a simple step, but if you’ve already fly fished before, you might have some expectations, especially for your gear. So, looking for gear that’s similar to what you’ve already used can help make the learning process a bit more enjoyable.

How important is top-tier performance vs affordability?

Alright, it’s time to talk price. You can spend an eye-popping amount of money on a fly rod these days. Some production rods go for more than my mortgage payment.

Those top-tier rods are wonderful tools, and generally speaking, they’re worth the money. You’re getting the latest and greatest tech and materials, backed by a warranty that’ll keep you fishing the rod for decades.

But you don’t need that rod. There are plenty of great options at more reasonable price points. Rods around $200 are a good place to start. Going much lower than that price point means you’ll end up with a rod that was built to sell at a certain margin, and not necessarily be a good fishing tool.

Around $200, though, you’ll get into rods that are built to be effective on the water. And if you’re making the investment to learn, then you should get a rod that won’t hamper your progress.

You might hear about people using $80 Amazon rod-and-reel combos and doing “just fine” with fly fishing, but that’s often not the case. Those super-cheap rods don’t have the feel and feedback you need to develop a good cast, and they often don’t come with any warranty or support. Plus, they likely weren’t designed and built by people who fish, which matters to how a rod performs on the water.

rainbow trout in the net

Wrapping Up

Buying your first fly rod doesn’t need to be an outrageous challenge. You just need to know what line weights mean, why so many rods are offered in different lengths, and have a good idea of the fishing you’re likely going to do. By going shopping with that in mind, you’ll quickly be able to cut through the noise of all the options and pick a rod that’ll work well as you start to learn this sport.

BTT and Derek DeYoung License Plate Collaboration Supports Saltwater Conservation

Bonefish & Tarpon Trust (BTT) is leading the charge in terms of warm water flats fishing conservation. Since its inception, BTT has been at the forefront of conservation, new research, and habitat restoration, all to benefit tarpon, bonefish, and permit. These species, and the habitats they depend on, are a core part of Florida fishing, and now Florida residents have the option to give back again with a limited edition license plate.

The BTT license plate is available to any Florida resident online or through your local DMV. Each license plate features close-up artwork of a tarpon, painted by none other than Derek DeYoung. The artwork is a perfect tribute to the fish so many Florida anglers obsess over. For anglers wanting to show off their love for the Silver King and support BTT, each plate is available for a nominal price of $33. With that, $25 of the purchase goes directly to supporting BTT and its ongoing conservation projects.

The license plates are currently available for vehicles, RVs, and, of course, boat trailers. This means that whatever you drive or trailer, you can represent and support Bonefish & Tarpon Trust. Unfortunately, these plates are only available to Florida residents. For those outside the state looking to support the incredible organization, sign up for a yearly membership, which includes a BTT decal, e-newsletter, and a year-long subscription to Bonefish & Tarpon Journal.